Sram technical manual 2012

I roll km a week and not a speed freak, just enjoying not being stopped in the clugged traffic. I just love both hubs, they do shift when hitting bumbs and whatever other ppls complain about those 2. When you know how the internals work you become a bit more comprehensive. Both are robust and reliable, SA do brake well and shifting is sometime not precise but your learn to cope, and forget riding in winter without changing he grease. The Sram is the free wheel ver Cesur do make a disk adapter for it , automatic is cool as my cruiser but I do like having the control of when I shift.

I want to build up a bike that is nearly impervious to bad weather, so I was a bit disappointed to read that the S2C and Automatix are equally poorly sealed. I decided to turn to the manufacturers themselves and see what they had to say.

SRAM, on the other hand, provided a reassuring response! They told me that the recommended service interval is every 2 years or 5,km. They also shared this anecdote:. Keeping the unit clean, especially from winter salt, will keep the hub performing optimally.

However, do not use water under pressure such as pressure washers or water jets for cleaning to prevent malfunctions due to water penetration. Wiping the drivetrain down routinely is a perfectly reasonable expectation that I can live. Repacking the hub every month or two? Not so much. Can you chime in on this, Dave? Is it possible that you underestimated the way the Automatix is sealed? Hi, I just got the Sram Automatix w coaster brake and 36 holes. It came with a 19 tooth sprocket.

What size front chain ring would be appropriate? I am building it with c wheels for a commuter for short rides in poor conditions. I am a decent cyclist but likes to spin light gears. Grateful for any input. Hey Peter, 42 on the easy side and 44 for a bit more torque. Just make sure the retaining clip is well seated. Biggus: thanks for sharing your experiences with both 2 speed hubs. If you simply hold the hub without the protector plate, the bearings are kind of exposed.

Peter: step A. Take an existing bike where you like the resistance. Compute how much distance the bike goes ahead by one pedal turn. This can be measured or computed. There are 3 main variables in the equation: 1. Beware, because replacing chainring maybe not trivial, and maybe not cheap. You have to be aware the BCD of your crank arm. You need to adjust the chain too. So rather do the calculations first and try to end up with the good number right away. So, I tried this fix and failed, miserably.

The bike no longer shifts gears. I need to know how to set the spring back in so it operates properly. Just tried this trick these days. It took a while to figure out how the spring assembled, but it works. Although, I found it rather difficult to tighten the hub properly. No matter what I do its either too tight or too loose. I find this strange. Any tips regarding this would be appreciated! Nick: Read Davids posts in this thread. He had the same problem and fixed it. His post helped me at least.

Csaba Toth — I want to remove the braking action when I pedal back I got a front brake. I understand from your excellent investigation that the freewheel black plastic replaces the metal cylinders that do the braking. But would you say the black plastic is essential?

What do you think would happen if I just removed the metal cylinders? Now if you look at the black spacer part, it has 2 mm rims, which mimick this distance.

Without that the copper color component may slide 2 mm towards the part I marked 5. Martin: Clarification: so the cylinders stick out 2 mms along the axis towards the component I numbered 5.

Csaba Toth — Thanks! Indeed the component looks important. I have one of these, and it was a bit crunchy and grindy. I am not terribly mechanical, and it almost looks like there is a missing bit for the bearings to roll round. I might just be misunderstanding how it works.. I am searching the net to find a recommended front chain ring size, what did u have? Thanks Ben. Depends on your terrain really.

Thaks Dave Just what i needed to know, and thanks for prompt reply I can get a 44t chainring, so that should be perfect Ben.

Hi Dave, just tried this last night and it looked ok also had the issue of overtightening the left-hand-side nuts when reassembling, resulting in high friction, but found that out myself…. Have I reassembled spring and weight incorrectly? I knew I should have checked more thoroughly how the thing looked in assembled form. Will try again tonight. Cheers C. Obviously I am quite dense but I too think I have the spring loaded back in wrong. Can someone describe in some detail how the spring is supposed to go back in.

Does it go through the slot in thin metal plate or remain above it? I have a question and an observation. In other words, when I tighten the locknuts, the whole axle moves with it, which results in the hub overtightening. I cant figure out why this is happening. Next, my observation. People experiencing a lot of noise with their hubs should check to make sure the ball bearing clip is in its proper recess. Upon taking my hub apart, I noticed that my non-drive side ball bearing clip had worked itself out of position which is what presumably was causing all the noise.

Re adjusted my sram automatix two speed like you said , and it changed my gearing, the spring unwinding works LOL…. I just had mine apart again to set the shift-point a bit higher, so while I have it fresh in memory I made this sketch in Paint bear with me.

Follow the link, and you should be able to mount the spring back correctly. I can ride this path almost all of the four miles to my job downtown.

So I bought an inexpensive large-framed single-speed bike with c wheels and found my commute to-and-from the office to be quite easy. The problem was about halfway down that half-mile block, I was running out of steam and wishing for a higher gear. My bike frame has no lugs for routing cables, so the SRAM 2-speed Automatix hub seemed like a good solution.

When I read the web reviews everything sounded great, except the many complaints about the early shifting at too low of a speed. Even so, I liked the idea of this hub and wanted to take a chance, even if I wound up having to do some tuning of the spring tension. So I bought the hub off the web and took it to my local bike shop to have the rear wheel rebuilt. They had to order new spokes and the turnaround with labor took about a week and cost as much as the hub. The shop guy said it tested well for him, so I took it out for a few test rides.

In fact, I have to crank my pedals pretty hard to activate the shift. By that time, this 57 year-old is getting a little winded. I wish it shifted about one or two MPH lower, but not enough to risk screwing up a perfectly nice working hub with my mediocre mechanical skills.

I think this hub probably shifts way too early on a small-wheeled folding bike, but for a full-sized bike with c wheels, it seems to be tuned just about right. I just got a bike with the SRAM Automatix two speed hub, and i was wondering about the durability of the hub? I use my bike for everyday transportation, so i need to rely on it not breaking down. I ride about km every day. I build a wheel with x25c tire yesterday and rode it 30 km today.

It seems right here in the flat and windy Copenhagen. The axel tread is 10x1mm, I got wrong nuts 10,5x… Thanks for the review and modification tip. I build my own frames from welded steel mainly stainless so I can build the frame to accommodate any transmission set-up I desire. Adjust the springs inside them to make the shift points just right for my style one closest to the wheel shifts first at about ish RPM pedal cadence and then the second one shifts next at about ish RPM pedal cadence after I spool back up after the first shift.

Just wondering if anyone has already done anything close to this. So I do like to have rated torque specs. Any information on that would be appreciated as well. Gearing up a lot on the first stage from the crank to the mid-transmission mounted hub s like a 52t on the crank back to the smallest tooth count I can get to fit the hub in question and then gearing back down after the mid-transmission to the wheel big sprocket on the wheel I can get to fit or even have custom made to fit and the smallest output sprocket I can on the hub-flange seems to have solved that problem in most cases but if I have the specs.

I can run the math and see how far I have to push that to keep the torque within the hubs limits, some can take a lot more then others. In terms of robustness, I had much better luck with the Automatix than other hub gears, but mine has now failed keep meaning to update this article, actually. You need to get the kind with the tabs that are squared in the drop ends of the frame…. So, just for the fun of it, I tried with a spring from a regular pen. Dunno if I should go for that — but I have absolutely no idea how to get at hold of another one.

Hello there… is there a fixed gear version of this hub? Thanks so much for posting this! I managed to tune my Automatix just like you instructed. I had to bend the spring back close to 90 degrees though, instead of 45 to get it to shift at about 16mph. Just laced an Automatix on a rim with a 35 tire. It shifts at Wich is just fine on my Diadora Elettrico pedelec. The bike came with a 7 speed wheel and was a bit awkward to operate.

Using 16tt is just perfect with the wheel size. When I hit 20 Mph, the front engine wheel become a free wheel and Im on my own. Love the hub. TMB: thanks for the advice. Those anti-rotation washers are also called non-turn washers, and I cannot imagine how could they really work without the claws which square into the dropouts.

This will be important for me soon, because I gonna put one of these into a titanium frame. The secure seating of the axle is very important for the internals of the hub. Also, one person drew my attention to ebay. Those hubs looks like to have aluminum shell.

Once you keep in mind this, you can plan your setup. With the finding of the article here you can adjust the shifting points in your hubs. You have to model the system, am I understand correctly that you want to use 3 hubs together 2 automatix and 1 SA 3 speed?

How would the whole system react, would other hubs than you want trigger shifting? Hey, this site is a great help. Csaba Toth, thanks for the info about false marketing considering the weight of the hub. I myself was planing to assemble light bike based on automatix and unfortunately already bought the heavy one but I could return it If I would find the alluminium version.

Do you now enything more abot the weight of the one sold on ebay. Enyway even if its for disk brake, could it be instaled without one, as a freewheel? Do you know the spokes size? I will like to install it on a Worksman, the spokes I have on the bike are 11G. Hello Dave, forgot to subscribe so only just saw your answer. I nearly ordered it the day before when it was 70 quid! Thanks Garry. Thanks Dave for this super-helpful post and thanks all esp. Csaba for the comments. That could be a way to go around the whole spring adjustment process because put diffferent springs inside anyway.

The small wheels turn faster at the same speed and so it could be perfect for a big wheel. If anyone is interested in one of these leave a reply. IF anyone tried that out already — how is it working?

Best regards Mathias. Just followed your instructions and it worked great. Such a simple process for a world of difference! So it seems to have a different spring than yours. When climbing I often wish it would shift a little later though, and I avoid hilly terrain. Mostly I stay well below Same crank length. The shift point is great for one thing: Sprinting off from a traffic light. The drop to 46 cadence is just perfect for me when standing and cranking hard.

Thanks for the update Gunnstein. Yep, that would be very handy. Anyway, I like it enough to consider it for a second bike, a snow-capable commuter. Basically to lose all rear cables. Can anybody recommend a front wheel hub to match the rear? Do Sram produce these? Thanks for the tips. I almost broke the circlip when getting it out. Is it correct that it is a DIN circlip i. Does anybody know the diameter or could measure it?

I would like to order a new one and replace mine. As for drum brake front hubs, Sturmey Archer is the way to go it seems. Spiff: If you measure the diameter and width of the spline that is used for the circlip you should be able to buy the correct size. I have a folding bike and want to make sure I would buy the correct smaller wheel version.

Many thanks. Hi from France Thanks Dave for this very helpful review and thanks for all the contributors. The freewheel is a bit noisy but pedaling and shifting are silent. Does anyone have a photo of a good condition sopacer which shows the 5 ithink clip parts? I justw ant to compare it to mine. If i get the play out of the hub, it does not spin very well at all. If it spins well, then I have the play, and cannot find an acceptable medium!

I used a 44 tooth Front Sprocket and switched to a 21 tooth in the back. I like the shift point so far. The arm is attached securely to the frame but the thing squeals and kinda vibrates when I brake. Any suggestions? Brian, mine was silent and working well for about 2 years, then started behaving as you describe.

I took it to a bike shop, they lubricated it, twice, and then it was ok. It must be the right kind, I believe they use a special grease intended for coaster brakes.

Gunnstein, thank you for confirming my suspected scenario. As a result some fiddling tests can be avoided. I cannot however remove the friction from the drive side. The crank itself spins nicely without the chain on it. When its all assembled with chain etc, there is a lot of friction both forward or back pedaling. Is the cog supposed to be able to spin freely in reverse like a normal freewheel or pedaling forwards- and if so- would that tension be controlled by the drive side lock nut either loosening or tightening?

If not does anyone have a suggestion as to what would need to be tweaked to remove this high drive side friction which is sapping my legs at the moment? It may be a case that when re-assembling you have not wound the spring right around to force the weight back into the closed position.

Following up on my last post- I have sorted the hub after some tinkering. Turns out I was a numpty and had put the plastic spacer back in the wrong way- causing the friction. After attempts of testing using just the hub internals i. In my case, I got them to a point of 78RPM cadence. This equates to a change point of about Next mopve though is to change the setpoint even higher.

Gunnstein, a follow up on my squealing hub. After lubing it twice to no avail I took it to my local bike shop. He thought it was a factory defect and had them send out a new hub. I had laced it with two and a half twists in the spokes for looks and was not wanting to try to undo them. We decided to swap the guts out.

The replacement squealed too. At this point, frustrated I took apart a wheel off one of my other bikes and laced in the original hub using the standard pattern without any twists and it worked fine. Only thing I can reason is. It uses the same internals. The same bike is now being sold with a smaller chainring. I only ever used about 4 gear combinations and I was constantly whizzing through the rear gears. I have replaced the rear hub with the two speed automatic and kept the front 3 chain rings with the supplied 19 tooth rear sprocket.

The bike changes ratio at 9. I am very happy with the unit and I still have the smaller chain rings for hills and headwinds. Another benefit of the system is that I can always pedal off if I have to stop suddenly at a junction.

On the rare occasions when I might want to go off road I can just drop out the rear wheel and pop in a 23T rear sprocket.

My commute in Edmonton, AB is 20 minutes one way. Flat as pancake, but often with challenging headwinds. I had gearing set up with 46T chainring and 22T cog. I was happy with hub performance and simplicity, except that shifting point… Seven days ago I finally decided to take apart the hub and unwind tiny spring.

Unwinding the spring is tricky, and one should be patient and have tweezers, pliers and flat precision screwdriver. After adjustment and lubrication, I changed cog to 19T. My hub works like charm and shifting point suites me better now! Thank you Dave! Anyone with a picture? Hi, I just got the 36H coaster brake version of the hub made in WB I have 46T cranks and 19T cog on the hub with c x 28 tyers.

I wish I could make a new spring with a thicker cable to solve the shifting issue, did anyone did that before? Hey Dave, quick question, does the coaster brake version comes with the safety bolt-clip which holds the coaster on the frame? Spring trick seemed to work well, just the ticket!

However, on my first test-drive after the operation, towards the end of my 15min drive it locked into higher gear! After dismantling and inspecting I saw the circlip had gone missing. It seems to have dislodged itself and vanished. Thankfully I found it greased to the inside of the hub casing. I was able to tighten it a bit between a pair of pliers then get it back on again. I used a flat screwdriver tapped with a small hammer, and tried to pinch the ends of it around the post with some needle-nose pliers.

Fingers crossed it has done the trick! Hi, thx for all the great info. However, the pullchain for this hub is getting hard to find. I equipped the 3 x 7 on my Bike Friday with a cassette, so the hub's high and low gears each gave me two additional nicely-spaced speeds. Then I found a tooth dished sprocket in Sheldon's basement and added that, widening the range -- see details about putting 8 or 9 sprockets on a 7-speed body here.

The S7 7-speed hub can be set up for an overall range from 27 through 82 gear inches, excellent for utility riding in a hilly area. The weight of the drum-brake version is reasonable, thanks to the aluminum shell. I plan to build an S7 into a wheel for a Raleigh Twenty. The G8 and G9 look promising for urban use, but I don't have hands-on experience with them.

And now they are no longer made. Other options? I needed two internal parts for a 3 x 9 DualDrive hub. Bike Friday has installed DualDrive hubs on many of its small-wheel bicycles, and so I contacted Bike Friday's German distributor -- writing in German, yet! Then I contacted Bike Friday directly.

Bike Friday cannibalizes returned DualDrive hubs to maintain a supply of spare parts. Thanks Tim! If you also need parts for a DualDrive hub, you might give Bike Friday a call. They are going to be harder to get, now that production has been discontinued. The axle threading of most SRAM internal-gear hubs is unusual, The i-Motion 9, G8 and G9 use common 10 x 1mm threaded axle nuts. The first thing to check if a hub doesn't get all the gears is whether the problem is in the shifter, or the hub.

On older hubs with a pullchain, the chain should be able to pull out only a tiny bit farther in its tightest position. Having established this, the hub should shift correctly into all of the gears.

If an indexed Shimano brake-shift lever is used to shift a 3 x 7 hub, as on some Bike Fridays, there needs to be an additional return spring on the cable to latch the shift lever.

Bike Friday used to supply a small stop which clamped to the cable using a grub screw, and a spring. You will have to improvise now. The 5- and 7-speed hubs use dual, concentric pushrods. With the clickbox removed, the hub should be in its lowest gear. Pushing the outer pushrod in should shift the hub to the middle direct drive and highest gear.

Pushing the inner pushrod in should shift the hub from low, to second, and in the 7-speed, also to third gear. If the clickbox doesn't shift the hub to these gears, then it is the problem. If these gears work with the clickbox installed but the 4th gear of the 5-speed, or 5th and 6th of the 7-speed don't work, you may have to push on both rods at once to isolate the problem.

You may need an assistant to help with this. If a DualDrive or other three-speed hub with a pullrod doesn't shift properly, remove the clickbox and pull out the pullrod which has a head with a screwdriver slot as far as it will go, while spinning the rear wheel forward so the shifting mechanism will release. Stop the wheel, hold the rod in the outermost position with pliers, turn the crank forward and see whether the hub is in low gear the wheel turns slower than the sprocket. Release the rod in two steps and you should get middle and high gear.

If so, the problem is with the clickbox, shifter or cable, so replace those. Otherwise, the problem is internal. There are pages on this site about hubs which get little coverage elsewhere: the G8 8-speed and G9 9-speed hubs , the i-Motion 9-speed hub , the Elan , and the Orbit 2 x 6 or 2 x 7 hybrid-gear hub.

If you are going to rebuild a hub, then you need to look at the Technical Manuals. The manual for each year is very similar except for the introduction of new models and deletion of discontinued ones. The spare parts manual covers the G8, G9 and DualDrive 3. Sutherland's Handbook of Internal-Gear and Coaster Brake Hubs , published in and now online on this site, has very complete information, including trouble charts and comparative parts lists, on Sachs two-speeds and the models , , H and H 3-speeds.

Comin soon: 5- and 7-speed hubs. Disclaimer: I was one of the authors! Many bicycle shops keep copies. Karsten Stielow's site Karstilo. The text is in German but there are many exploded drawings and photos. A reader of this site has sent us links to a photo guide to rebuilding the S7, along with some additional useful information -- in Russian. Walter Jakuba, Das Zweirad -- has spare parts for Sachs hubs.

Hansen now has an English version of the site too. He has exploded drawings, parts lists and step-by-step rebuilding instructions, with photos. Hansen rebuilds these hubs and sells replacement parts. Reports of the demise of this Web site are greatly exaggerated! We at sheldonbrown. Harris Cyclery has closed, but we keep going.

Keep visiting the site for new and updated articles, and news about possible new affilations. Caution is in order not to use too much oil when it could seep through the bearing into a drum brake Phil Wood Tenacious Oil is a good choice, if used in moderation and replenished once every thousand miles or so, or at least once every couple of years. I have spares of both the S7 and 3 x 7 hubs or I wouldn't be using them.

You do well to keep a spare hub for parts. Here are some information sources for rebuilds.